You’ve navigated the roads, settled the camper onto the site, and unhitched. The heavy lifting is over. Now, it's time for that final, crucial step: getting the power connected. This should be as simple as plugging in a lamp, but we all know it isn't.
You open the metal cover on the campground's electrical pedestal, and the questions start. Why doesn't this pedestal have a 30-amp connection? Why does this one look scorched? Is the wiring even safe?
Our resident expert, Scott, has spent decades in this industry, focusing on no-nonsense, practical solutions for the real-world problems RVers face every day. We're going to tackle your toughest questions about Power Grip, the product line designed to take the guesswork and the risk out of this job. Let's get to it.
Question: My campsite pedestal has a 50-amp plug, but my camper uses a 30-amp cord. I see all these adapters, and someone mentioned a 'dogbone.' What’s the right way to connect?
This is, hands down, the most common puzzle at the pedestal. You open the box and hope to see three different-looking outlets: a 15-amp (like at your house), a 30-amp (with three prongs), and a 50-amp (with four-prongs), but instead you only see a 50-amp. This isn't a situation where you can simply "make it work." You have to use an adapter—and use it correctly.
Your camper is built to run on 30-amps. The pedestal is offering 50-amps. The solution is an adapter, but not all adapters are created equal. My choice? A dogbone adapter. It gets its name from its shape: a plug on one end, a connector on the other, with a short, heavy-duty, flexible cord in the middle.
A Power Grip 50A Male to 30A Female Dogbone solves this problem perfectly. The flexible cord takes all the strain, so there’s no stress on the outlet or your camper's plug. The sturdy handle gives you leverage to get a solid, secure connection when plugging in and, more importantly, a safe, firm grip to pull it straight out when disconnecting.
- For 50-amp RVs: You’ll need a Power Grip 30A Male to 50A Female Adapter and a Power Grip 15A Male to 50A Female Adapter. This lets you plug into the more common 30-amp outlets or even a standard household outlet in a pinch.
- For 30-amp RVs: Use a Power Grip 50A Male to 30A Female Adapter (in case the 30-amp outlet is broken or non-existent) and a 15A male to 30A female adapter for connecting at home.
Question: I hear horror stories about campground power 'frying' an RV's electronics. What’s the difference between a 'surge guard' and a 'voltage protector,' and what should I be looking for?
Campground wiring can be a mystery. It might be brand new, or it might be decades old and poorly maintained. You just don't know.
Let’s break down the two biggest threats:
- A Surge: This is a sudden, massive spike in power. A lightning strike hitting a nearby transformer is an example. It’s a ton of voltage in a split second that can instantly destroy electronics.
- Low Voltage (Brownout): This is an electrical problem you may encounter most often in a crowded campground, and it is frequently more damaging than a simple surge. This happens, for example, when it’s a hot afternoon and every camper in the park has their A/C cranked up. The campground's electrical system can't keep up, and the voltage drops from 120V down to 105V or lower.
This low voltage forces your appliances, especially AC motors in air conditioners and refrigerators, to pull more amps to compensate. This "over-amping" causes them to work too hard, overheat, and burn themselves out over time.
A surge guard is designed to do one thing: stop the big, fast spikes in power, like a lightning strike. It’s basic protection, and it's better than nothing, but it does not protect against low voltage.
For low voltage protection, a voltage protector (or EMS - Electrical Management System) is a "smart" solution. Camco’s Power Grip Voltage Protector is a comprehensive diagnostic tool that actively defends your camper.
It doesn’t just block surges. It actively monitors the power before it ever gets to your RV. It checks for these faults:
- High voltage (spikes)
- Low voltage (brownouts)
- Incorrectly wired pedestals
- Reverse polarity
- Open neutral
If it detects a dangerous condition, it cuts power if the condition persists for more than 8-10 seconds, refusing to let the "bad" electricity into your camper. It's designed to stop all of these common electrical threats, saving you thousands of dollars in appliances—your fridge, your A/C, and your TVs.
Question: My cord won’t reach the pedestal. Can I chain a couple of household extension cords together?
The answer to this is definitely, "No."
A standard household extension cord is typically rated for 15 amps. It uses a thinner gauge wire to save cost and weight. Your camper is trying to pull 30 amps or even 50 amps of power.
If you try to pull 30 amps through a cord rated for only 15, the wire's resistance creates a lot of heat. That cord will overheat, the insulation will melt, and it becomes a significant fire hazard.
This is exactly why Power Grip Heavy-Duty Extension Cords exist.
These aren't just "longer cords." They are purposely built for RVs. They are designed with the same heavy-gauge wire as your main RV cord, which is thick enough to safely handle the high amperage draw.
A 30-amp extension cord is built to handle 30 amps. A 50-amp extension is built to handle 50 amps. They are tough and weather-resistant and provide secure connections. And, of course, the Power Grip handles on both ends make it easy to connect the extension to the pedestal and then connect your main cord to the extension, creating a single, secure, high-capacity line.
Using the proper extension cord is the only safe way to bridge that gap.
Question: I want to get my RV ready in my driveway for a trip, but I only have a regular 15-amp house outlet. What’s the safest way to plug in my 30-amp RV to cool the fridge?
Pre-chilling the refrigerator before your trip is a pro move. Nobody wants to deal with loading a warm fridge. But you've correctly identified the problem: you have a 30-amp plug and a 15-amp household outlet. The plugs don't match, and for good reason. Your home's circuit can't handle that. You can connect them, but you must understand the limitations. You're not going to run the whole camper.
The tool for this very specific job is a Power Grip 15A Male to 30A Female Dogbone Adapter.
This connects your big 30-amp cord to your standard household outlet. But once you're plugged in, this connection is only for mainly two things:
- Running your refrigerator (on electric mode) to get it cold.
- Allowing your RV’s "converter" to (trickle) charge your house batteries.
Make sure to avoid turning on your A/C. It will instantly trip the breaker in your house. And do not use a bunch of other appliances at once.
This adapter is a fantastic tool. It lets you prepare your camper for a trip without the hassle of installing a dedicated 30-amp service at home. Just know what it's for—and what it's not for.
Powering the Experience
Electrical power can seem complex, but it doesn't have to be intimidating. It all comes down to having the right tools and a little bit of knowledge. The Power Grip line was designed around practicality and safety. It’s about making a solid, easy, and reliable connection every single time, so you don't have to stand at the pedestal and worry.
The goal is to get the job done right, so you can stop thinking about power and start focusing on the experience—the campfire, the family, and the adventure ahead.
Happy camping!
